A locksmith can:

1. Unlock you home, car or business when you have locked the keys inside.
2. Open most combination padlocks.
3. Re-key your house, business or vehicle locks.
4. Make keys to your home, business or vehicle.
5. Duplicate keys; house, vehicle including VATS and transponder, padlocks, car carriers, motor home, motorcycle and many more.
6. Work on both residential and commercial hardware.
7. Sell and service locks, safes, and commercial hardware.
8. Open Safe Deposit Boxes.
9. Open and repair (most) Safes.
10. Sell hard to find keys and often times lock parts.

The above is just a partial list of the type of things that Locksmiths work on, sell, and/or service.

When you are looking to purchase a safe, there are several things to consider:

1. How big of a safe do you need? One of the best ways to determine this is by figuring out what you want to put in the safe. Then taking a regular sized shoe box and putting those items into it; figuring out how many shoe boxes you will need to put in all the items. The inside of a safe is measured in cubic inches. This is a quick way to figure out how many cubic inches you are going to need.

2. What type of items are you going to be putting in the safe? Paper documents? Money? Jewelry? Coin collections? Guns? Are these items you need to get to daily? Or are you looking to put them some place where you can get to them when/if you need to?

3. Where are you going to put the safe? Are you looking to have a safe that no one can see? In the wall or in the ground? In a closet? Or is it something you don’t care if others know about?

Once you determine these factors you will have narrowed down the type of safe you are looking for.

Floor Safes: Using the term floor safe is a very generic way of asking for a safe. The reason for this is that most us (myself included) think of a floor safe in one of two ways. Either a safe that you put into the ground and surround with concrete or a safe that sits on the floor. In the industry, a floor safe is thought of as the first type. While the second type is just considered to be a “safe”.

Floor safes generally have lift off doors or use spring hinges to help raise the door for easy opening. These can be placed in various parts of the home. When using this type of safe, it is best to put your items into a zip-lock bag before placing them in the safe. If your home ever goes through a fire, when it is being hosed to put out the fire, the water will often seep into the safe. While your documents and items will be safe from the fire, they will not be safe from the water without taking the proper precautions.

The other [floor] safe often comes with bolt down hole so they can be bolted to the floor. This is to prevent someone from walking away with a safe that, if not bolted down, weighs less than 100 lbs.  You can  also add various option such as the safe being  fire-proof, burglar proof or both fire and burglar proof. Note: Whenever a safe can have these options, it will always add to the price no matter the type of safe.

Wall Safes: I would think that every one would know what a wall safe is but just in case; a wall safe is a safe that is mounted into the wall. The depths of these safes range between 4″-15″ deep.  As of this writing, I only know of one, made by AMSEC, that is fire-proof.

Gun Safes: These safes generally stand about 5′ tall and come in various width and depth dimensions. They come standard, fire-proof and burglary proof. They also come with various interior configurations; All shelves, half shelf/half gun/rifle and all gun/rifle. These different interiors allow you to make the most of your gun safe. They are also, generally, the most decorative of the bunch; so having a gun safe in your living room as part of the decor is not unheard of.

In some states (As an example in Washington state: RCW 82.08.832) you can purchase a gun safe tax-free. Washington State pass this as a way to encourage people to lock up their hand guns and rifles to prevent unauthorized use.

Safes also come with various ‘dial’ configurations. Most safes come with a dial or key combination lock; however you can get them with an electronic combination lock or  fingerprint lock. As technology advances, so do state of the art dials. Any safe that offers the “choice” of the type of dial you have, also can have an addition to the purchase price of the safe.

There are several small safes out there as well. These can be referred to as microwave safes since they are about the size of a microwave. There is also a campus vault available for college students. These often come  with electronic dials, bolt down holes and sometimes fire-proof that are available for minimal cost. (Ranging from $100 – $300).

So the big question is:

How much do you want to pay for a safe? Most people want a lot for nothing. In our current economy this is even more prevalent. Just remember you get what you pay for.

What you need to know about a ‘fire-proof’ or ‘fire-resistant’ safe:

1. ) What makes safe manufacturers different in there products are the type of materials they use for making the safe fire-proof and how much of it they use. [Gypsum or Sheetrock; Gypsum is the better choice.] How many ‘layers’ are used because when a fire burns each ‘layer’ releases water vapor to keep the interior cool.

2.) What is the U.L. fire rating? This rating states how long a safe must be able to stand a fire. A normal house fire burns at around 1200° We wouldn’t recommend a  safe that can’t withstand a fire for at least an hour (AMSEC tests their safes at 1800°) should be the minimum that you purchase.

3.) What are burglary ratings?These are ratings based on the use of “regular” methods of someone working with a torch, drill, saws, pry bars, etc. in order to gain entry into the safe.

As you figure out the type of safe you need, based on the above information and narrow it down to what is best for you. There is one last thing to consider; whether to buy a safe or use a bank safe deposit box.

This is a lot like sorting out the benefits of rent or own. When you use a safe deposit box, you are renting it. You pay a monthly charge for the length of time that you have it. You also only have access to the box during regular bank hours. Whereas when you purchase a safe, you are paying out one (often times large) payment; but you have access to your valuables whenever you want.

If you are going to purchase a safe, we highly recommend AMSEC. They have a great product and are a leader in their industry. Unlike a lot of safe companies, they have always been  a safe company. Many other companies started out making other things. They have a great product warranty and their staff is friendly and helpful. (more…)

What?!? If you haven’t already read our FAQ or aren’t familiar with this term, as a lot of people aren’t, let me introduce you to a little thing called a re-key. Re-keying a lock is pretty much what it sounds like; but let me break it down into even simpler terms. It means to take an existing lock and make the key that works, no longer work by reconfiguration the pins so a new key will work. (Ripping  out the insides and replacing them with newer, faster, stronger, better than before… okay maybe not quite… but you get the idea now.)

Why, oh why, would anyone want to do this? I mean, why not just go out and buy new locks? Replacement hardware is the solution? There are a couple of reasons why you don’t need to go out and buy new hardware. First, its a more expensive choice. Second, if you buy a lock that costs less than it does to re-key your locks, then you are probably buying cheap locks that will fail relatively quickly. Also most locksmith can’t and/or won’t re-key a cheap lock. They aren’t made to spec; because they aren’t meant to be re-keyed.

Most locksmiths charge between $10-$20 to re-key a lock (depending on where you are located) if you bring the lock into them. If a locksmith comes out to you, then you will be charged a service call as well as a re-key charge which may be a little higher than if you brought the locks in. (Some locksmith also charge a labor rate on top of that as well. We don’t.) Note: When calling any locksmith, ask if they charge a flat rate or if there is going to be a labor rate as well. Find out what the service call is and the re-key charge per cylinder. Some locks have two cylinders [such as double sided deadbolts] and you will be charged accordingly.)

The decision to re-key or replace is really a matter of how the lock is holding up. Some locks can last a lifetime, only needing a squirt of WD-40 from time to time. Others, especially cheaper  locks will fail faster. Some locksmiths will come out and do free estimates and can help you to know the difference.

You never know when you might need to re-key your home. So here are a few good practices to keep in mind:

1. When you purchase a new home. Why? Whether your home is a manufactured home or it has been built to your specifications, you don’t know who may have a key to your home. Even if the contractor gave you all the keys; Did the sub-contractors turn them all in? Did they make extra copies to make it easier so they could paint the walls? put in the flooring? Just because your home is new, doesn’t mean that for peace of mind you shouldn’t have your locks re-keyed. Note: This is not saying contractors are bad and they didn’t indeed give you all the keys. Locks keep honest people honest. Its just a good practice.
2. When you move into a rental; have the landlord re-key the locks prior to your moving in or ask permission to have the locks re-keyed as soon as you move in. You don’t know how many people the previous tenants may have given keys to.
3. When you purchase  a preowned home. How many keys did the realtor’s have out there? How many friends, neighbors and/or family members did the previous owners give keys to? Peace of mind and personal safety is worth the cost of re-keying your locks. I have had customers tell me that they knew the previous owner and they were sure that they had all the keys. They are probably correct in their assumption, but did they ask  the previous owners how many keys they had lost over the years?
4. If you purchase ‘keyed alike’ locks from a big box store: You go to a box store and buy “keyed alike” locks; the packaging will often say’match this number’ to another box to purchase another keyed alike lock. The problem? Well, everyone else doing the same thing. If you go and find twenty-two (22) locks keyed alike and need only two (2) who is buying the other twenty (20)? Box stores have keyed alike numbers in bulk, so you aren’t the only one getting them. Now who else has a key to your house? Most locksmith do not charge a re-key fee if you purchase the locks from them. So the benefit of buying locks from a locksmith is that the chances of them re-keying your locks to the same as someone else is reduced by literally tens of thousands.
5. Your keys were lost or stolen. Yes, this is an easy one. If you don’t know who has your keys, then you definitely should re-key your locks.

Another really good practice;  if you use key tags to separate your keys never and I mean never, put your full name, physically address or phone number on your keys. Mark the tags with something you will remember such as  ”summer house”. Use one of those services “if lost drop in the mail”.  Or return to a Post office box. (In this case the address without your name.)

In Conclusion: There are two ways to get your locks re-keyed; have a locksmith come out or take your locks off the door (while someone waits in the house or bring in one lock [assuming you have two locks a knob and a deadbolt] in at a time.) and bring them in. Note: Some locksmith charge the same re-key rate whether you bring them in or not. Others charge slightly less if you bring them in yourself.

The benefit of bringing them in: You save the service call, so it cost less.

I can not count the times we have had a call from a customer telling us that they have lost their keys to their vehicle and wanting to know if we can make the key from their VIN number.

While in theory, this seems like a perfectly simple request, the solution is not as simple. Depending on the year of your vehicle, you can often go to a dealer and show proof of ownership and they will give you the code. However, if the vehicle is over ten (10) years old, then most dealers roll off that information. This is where German vehicles can often be a step ahead; Mercedes, BMW, etc., as they keep this information longer, yet it is also harder to access.

Let’s look at Ford vehicles – they have no code numbers on the vehicle, anywhere. For safety reasons, this isn’t a bad feature. However, if you lose your keys, it can end up costing you quite a bit of money. The reason: depending on the number of cuts that are on the vehicle, only part of those are on the door lock and the rest have to be progressed. (Some times, depending on the age of the vehicle [95 or earlier] you might get lucky and have some of the cuts on the glove box lock. Don’t hold your breathe.) Progressing a key equates to make  a cut, try the key, make a cut, try the key. Depending on the variables, this can take multiple blanks and quite some time.

In the early days, car dealers often made it easier for customers by giving them the code number to their vehicle as a ‘service’. This service doesn’t exist anymore without you asking for the information. It’s much the same with transponder keys; on used cars you get one. With new cars you get two. I always advise customers to not leave without a minimum of two keys and three is even better. Duplicate transponder keys are costly. The ticket value of these can be a shock to the system.

What to do:

1. Prevention is always the best solution. (We like to think that most of us will work toward this end, however the number of customers I have met who only have one key for their vehicle is amazingly high.) When you purchase a vehicle or anything that takes a key for your lock, make  duplicate keys; get one for the sole purpose of putting it away so that if you lose all the others, you can take it and get other copies made. Use a second one to hide somewhere, for emergencies.I can’t stress enough how important it is to have a backup key.
2. When you purchase a vehicle, ask for the code number. Then write it down and put it in a safe place that you will be able to retrieve it or have someone else retrieve it in an emergency. Do not keep it in your vehicle.
3. If you lose your keys to your vehicle, remember that you can have the vehicle towed to a locksmith. Why would you want to have your vehicle towed? You will save yourself money, especially if you have roadside assistance where towing is paid for. Often times you may be able to get the vehicle worked on more quickly, as most locksmiths have someone in the shop that can do this or they can fit it in between other jobs. Otherwise, you can arrange to have the locksmith come out to you, but don’t expect them to be there within minutes. Remember: Locksmithing is a profession and therefore most locksmith have other jobs on their calendars. Helping you will be based on time and availability.
4. While using a locksmith is less expensive than going to the dealer; remember to call the locksmith first to discuss your needs. They will want to know the year and type of vehicle, as if it is something they can’t work on or if it is a dealer only item, then they can let you know so you don’t waste a trip.
5. Don’t expect a locksmith to be able to use your VIN number to make the key. While there are times where a VIN can be used to retrieve a code number, it is not guaranteed. For example; if you aren’t the original owner of the vehicle; at some point the locks may have been re-keyed or replaced. In this case the VIN number is useless for code retrieval. Depending on the age of the vehicle, the code may not be available at all.
6. Sometimes vehicles may have the code number on a lock or it may have been written in the owners manual. The locksmith may give you several options for the best way to get the code number or make the key that will reduce the cost. When the code number is available, making a key is not be as expensive as if there were no code at all. Remember to have proof that the vehicle is yours.
7. The first key made will be the most expensive key to make. Duplicate keys are generally charged at the regular rates. So don’t be shocked if the cost to make a key to code ranges between: $25 and $45 to make. Remember that duplicate keys will not be as much. Make sure you get duplicate keys! Making a key to code and progressing a key are two entirely different methods. Don’t expect a progressed key to be inexpensive. Also, remember that there will be labor involved, which is going to add to your cost.
8. After you have a key made, you can ask the locksmith for the code number. Most locksmith will give you this number anyway in order to help you have a less expensive experience in the future. Some locksmith have the ability to keep your code number on file for you. They will only do this if you ASK them. Most locksmith do not keep this type of record unless specifically requested to do so. Even then, some locksmiths will not keep these records.